When I went Skinny Dipping in Iran, everyone from mullahs to hipster film-makers wanted to help. As a Persian-speaker, I got myself into restricted areas and out of police stations. I met women oppressed by the compulsory dress code, and others who felt liberated by it. I started out looking for the past, but along the way, I also saw the future, when I realised how close Iran is to environmental and social disaster.
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