Buying the only Mongol carpet

The Islamic Sales this week were, as usual, a great chance to see – and even handle – high quality objects. I went to Christies with a friend of mine and we drooled over the only known Mongol carpet (yes, you read that correctly – the only one!). This was not only gorgeous – the …

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Catching flamingos on Lake Urmia?

Flamingoes are returning to Lake Urmia – or so Ettela’at reported via @IranFrontPage this week. It’s usually bad news on the environmental front in Iran, so if it’s really happening, this is wonderful! I already blogged about how Lake Urmia has been turning into a salt waste. And I didn’t altogether believe in the half a …

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Qajar beauties in cities without a King

An exhibition on Qajar beauty is on in Qatar at the moment, including some splendid photos as well as paintings.  The Qajar period was a time when ideals of feminine beauty changed greatly. Elsewhere on my website, I’ve shown how Qajar Bakhtiari women (top left image) were thought beautiful if they had a moon face, at least …

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Sizdeh Behdar in a parched Iran

Yesterday was sizdeh behdar – the thirteenth day of the new year, and a time to go outside and picnic. It’s when you throw your sabzeh (from your Sofreh Haft Sin) into water, to wash away your negativity. And a time for young women and men to get together – tying knots either into the …

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Goncheh Ghavami is free – though not to travel

Goncheh Ghavami has been pardoned for the ‘crime’ of standing peacefully outside the Azadi Stadium asking to be allowed to watch Iran’s volleyball team play against Italy. Her protest – along with some other activists – challenged the longstanding ban in the Islamic republic against women attending big sporting events alongside male fans. Although she is …

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