The most luxurious handbag in the world

The inlaid metal handbag at the centre of the Courtauld ‘Court and Craft’ exhibition. Image from Kee Hua Chee

The first ever exhibition of Islamic art in the Courtauld Gallery is centred on a gorgeous metal inlaid handbag. There’s a life-size display recreating the lavish court scene on the inlaid decoration of the lid: an Il-Khanid court scene, with a richly dressed couple surrounded by a retinue of well-dressed attendants in feathered hats. There is food and drink, and much of the paraphernalia of a princely life: parasol, falcon, lute.  Beside the woman, her page holds a mirror and wears, suspended across his chest, her bag.

I don’t generally like handbags – but this is amazing!

The RAS blog describes how “conviviality was at the heart of Mongol culture and the scene on the lid recalls the festivities which took place after a day at the hunt”.  It also notes how the images of noblewomen seated alongside their spouses in court scenes in manuscripts and on this handbag reflect the high status of women within Mongol society.

The party scene on the handbag’s lid. The attendant to the lady’s left has another handbag draped over his shoulder. Image on RAS blog

A similar handbag is shown in Humay and Humayun in the garden, from the Khamsa of Kwaju Kirmani, from Baghdad: dated Jumada I 798 (March 1396). This is included in the Courtauld display.

Look below to see this very special Khamsa image – the handbags are held by the attendant – and don’t miss out the goat skin being used to hold, presumably, wine. Skins like this are still used by the Bakhtiari (for water, milk, and yoghurt) – I spent ages learning how to tie them properly when I walked the migration.

Pair of Earrings. Iran or Iraq, 11-14th century. Gold sheet, wire and granulation. Image from londoncalling.com

The Courtauld display includes crescent-shaped gold earrings (shown above) like those worn by the lady on the handbag’s lid; a Chinese mirror similar to the one held by the page; and a Syrian glass bottle like the one depicted on the table.

I’m impressed (at least in theory) by this clever sort of display – seeing the objects in context – so, away from the white-wall art-gallery-look that Islamic art has suffered with since the 1910 Munich exhibition.

This is all very well, but where’s the Iran link? Maybe (maybe, maybe) the earrings are Iranian. And there is definitely an Iranian drawing (from the Diez Album) : A lady walking with two pages. This 14th century ink drawing is in the Courtauld exhibition – some of the other objects are here, if you can’t get along to see it all in person.

Here’s the Humayun image – it’s worth spending time with:

Humay and Humayun in the garden, from the Khamsa of Khwaju Kirmani. Baghdad, dated Jumada I 798 (March 1396) Image is © The British Library Board, BL Add. 18113 (folio 40v) – this copy is from Artfund.org

2 thoughts on “The most luxurious handbag in the world”

  1. I’m super-excited about the upcoming Courtauld exhibition. It’s their first ever display of Islamic art, and it’s all centred on a gorgeous, and unique metal inlaid handbag. There’s a life-size display recreating the lavish court scene inlaid into the bag. This bag was made in Mosul, Iraq in 1300-10. I know my website is about Iran – but I hope you’re going to make an exception for this posting. Of course, there is an Iran connection, so I’m not completely cheating by including it. Read more here.
    And, if you can, do go along and have a look yourself

    Reply
  2. I’ve been to see the Courtauld Exhibition. Which may be tiny – but still kept Sarah (thanks for coming, Sarah) and I enthralled for hours (and hours). And the handbag itself? It’s absolutely amazing – please take the chance to go see.

    Reply

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